For the purposes of our studio we use the word ‘tailored’ to discriminate mass market garments that do not possess the bespoke qualities that are traditionally associated with tailoring.
Some of these garments opened my mind to the possibilities of tailoring and in some way formed my opinion on what constitutes a tailored garment. I suppose for me I believe truly exquisite tailoring is not only held in the exterior components of the jacket (lapel, collar etc) but just as importantly- if not more, in the interior components.
This encompasses not only the internal structures that form the concealed basis of the jacket, but also the sometimes quirky details that only reveal themselves to the wearer.
Most decent quality tailored jackets we see on the market have features such as internal jet pockets but what I’ve discovered from my trip to Eastern Market is how truly amazing tailored pieces have internal features that are so intriguing- such as interesting pocket detailing, facing tapes that are used as a decorative element within the jacket and not just for its intended purpose.
One particular designer that I found captures this is the enigmatically named Japanese brand ‘If Six Was Nine’. I instantly fell in love with their tailored pieces that took tailoring into a contemporary and slightly punk realm. The Jackets were made out of leather but didn’t look like ordinary leather jackets. They were structured with all the internal features of which most tailored jackets consist- shoulder pads, shoulder roll etc. The linings had interesting prints, and pocket detailing I hadn’t seen before. The sleeve head consisted of structured panels. The collars were decorated with studs and beading, and the cuffs had skulls as buttons that were covered in silk. Other details included cuffs covered in tiny metal crosses.
These distinguishing features elevate the garments above the mass market jackets, and thus are priced accordingly
- Written by Tanya Rapaic
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