The use of tailoring in the S/S 2011 rtw & F/W 2011 rtw collections.

Zambesi S/S 2011



Haider Ackerman S/S rtw 2011



Balenciaga S/S 2011 rtw



Albino F/W 2011 rtw

 

Haider Ackerman F/W 2011 rtw

Thimister F/W 2011 rtw

(images from style.com and the Zambesi official websit)

POST BY TANYA

street style- students at Melbourne Uni

Lauren and I endeavoured to see how students at Melbourne Uni incorperate tailoring into thier outfits. At first we thought the task would be easy and that we would manage to find some great examples of tailored pieces..however this wasn't so much the case. But after time spent searching for the perfect candidates we managed to find something and didnt leave empty handed.

IMAGES BY TANYA & LAUREN

LZF Quality Australian Manufactured Zippers - Post by Vicky

LZF Quality Australian Manufactured Zippers is located in 67 Weston Street, Brunswick, which produce any types of the zips with different colours and different sizes. Also customers can choose more than 30 different sliders to suit any requirements. And the zips are produced only take one day.

Street Style by Amy & Georgia

Who- Sarah

What – Vintage Simona cropped women’s jacket

Why- The black contrast detailing sets of the burnt orange red and the matching buttons act as the finishing touch. The cropped style of the jacket is perfect for the intensity of the bold colour. Military meets Chanel.

Who- Vicky

What – Double-breasted jacket with detachable fur vest

Why – The versatility of this jacket functions for all occasions, we love that it can take Vicky from day to night. The fur, black wool and gold detailing combination would not have the same effect in any other colour, but black makes the garment rich and elegant. Russian Sophistication.

Who – Sunny

What – Tailored tapered pencil skirt with layered back vent

Why – We love the streamline silhouette exuding femininity. The layered vent at the back is highlighted by two covered buttons adding subtle interest to the minimal design. The colour also acts as a point of difference to this classic design. Forties/ office chic. 

Who – Remy

What – Tailored Ralph Lauren Jacket

Why – This safari style jacket has vintage charm but clean modern lines making it the feature of any outfit. Design details such as the large external pockets and the neck fastening tab add interest. The inside of the jacket is as attractive as the outside with contrast lining, many internal jet pockets of different size and a leather hook hanger. Classic gentleman!

Davisha-Post from Vicky

Davisha textile Merchants is from Richmond, which is the best place to go to get tailors's fabrics. Also the staffs in there are really help students to find out the fabrics you want, especially wool,most of them are from Italy.  

Yves Saint Laurent - Georgia Wyrill

The ladies man who made the prettiest boys of girls!

Saint Laurent is famous for his creation ‘Le Smoking’ (1966), the women’s version of a tuxedo, which became an alternative to the over effeminate evening gown that dominated in the sixties, followed by the safari jacket, the brass-buttoned pea coat, flying suits and the shirt-dress; all traditionally male pieces that he pioneered to become many of the chic classics of postwar women’s style.

(Berge, P & Bacon, J 2008, Yves Saint Laurent: Style, Abrams, New York, USA.)

In 1975, Helmut Newton’s famous photograph (below) was published in Vogue and immortalized the power of attraction and sexuality at the limits of androgyny in the Yves Saint Laurent tuxedo, now one of the most famous and respected creations by the designer.

“Yves Saint Laurent invented the foundations of the modern wardrobe, which remains the foundations of modern fashion... He offered a basis for the wardrobe of a woman of action, reproducing all the advantages of a male business suit: the comfort and security of a well-made garment and the modern armor with which to face the world with confidence.” (Polan & Tredre, 2009, The Great Fashion designers, 118).

(http://kendrickjacocks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Yves_Saint_LaurentHelmut_Newton.jpg)

Yves Saint Laurent said the reasoning behind his use of masculinity was because “I noticed men were much more comfortable than women in their clothes and I tried to give them this confidence” (In Search of Yves Saint Laurent, SBS, 2007). 

It is important to note that Saint-Laurent did not simply copy masculine looks but took inspiration from them and paired designs with highly feminine details such as silk muslin blouses and bow neck-ties. 

(Berge, P & Bacon, J 2008, Yves Saint Laurent: Style, Abrams, New York, USA.)

It is said that he was like Chanel in this way, responding to the subtleties of masculine tailoring seeking to provide a similar sort of style for women and she agreed calling him her “only inheritor” at the time of her retirement.

(Berge, P & Bacon, J 2008, Yves Saint Laurent: Style, Abrams, New York, USA.)

To me, Saint Laurent was the perfect designer, using a mix of humour, simple lines, carefully selected colour and pure classicism in all he created. 

The smoking jacket or tuxedo he made for women has been a main source of inspiration for the tailored jacket I am in the process of making this semester. 

He will always be one of my favourite designers and I think what he did for the female wardrobe in the form of tailored garments was an enormous feat that has not been topped since.

photos by angel